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If you’ve got hooded eyes, then you know what a challenge applying eye makeup can be. While everyone else seems to just sweep on a fierce cat-eye, you’re trying to figure out how to keep it on, let alone apply it. Sure, some of the most popular young celebrities today, like Blake Lively, Taylor Swift, and Jennifer Lawrence, have hooded eyes, and their eye makeup manages to look fabulous all the time, but they also have the benefit of countless makeup artists at their beck-and-call. Lucky for you though, there are some simple tips you can use to make your hooded eyes really pop!
- Primer is your best friend – This is the single most important element of applying makeup for hooded eyes! Since your upper lid tends to fold over and hide your lower lid, any eye makeup you apply there is likely to be rubbed off quickly by the friction, so primer (like Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, or Benefit Stay Don’t Stray) will provide your products with loads more staying power. Apply from base of lashes to just below the brow bone and blend in, then allow to dry before applying any other products.
- Brows – You might not realize it, but unkempt brows can actually make your hooded lid look even heavier. Likewise, an over-plucked brow creates the appearance of more lid space, which draws attention to your hood. If you are unsure about the best shape for your face, go to a salon. They can help you get the basic shape established, so then all you will have to do is maintain. To keep them filled in, the best eyebrow makeup is usually powder, applied with a stiff angled brush. Powder often looks more natural than pencil, but the best brows usually combine both! Try a combo of Anastasia of Beverly Hills Brow Wiz and Smashbox Brow Tech.
- Use smudge-proof, water-proof liner and mascara – Again, if you constantly wrestle with disappearing eye makeup, the formulation of your products could be the culprit. You might have shied away from “smudge-proof” or “water-proof” before, but there are such great products out there, like the Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil, that go on smoothly, blend effortlessly, and, most importantly, stay on! If it’s the removal of those smudge-proof and water-proof liners and mascaras that has you fretting, a product like Neutrogena Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover will quickly and gently wipe your eyes completely clean.
- Shadow placement – This is probably the second most important element in hooded eyes makeup, right behind using primer. With the sagging skin of hooded eyes, typical eye makeup tutorials often don’t apply to you. But don’t lose heart! You just need a slightly different placement technique. The goal is to camouflage the hooded skin to create the illusion of a more balanced, open eye using light and dark color placement (light colors bring forward, and dark colors recede). So, after your lid primer is dry, sweep a light, shimmery shade all over the lower lid. Next, apply a darker, matte shadow into the outer V (extending it a bit up and out). And now for the real magic…looking forward, with your eyes relaxed (so you can clearly see the hood), sweep a darker matte shadow in and slightly above your crease (yes, onto the lower part of the hood). In a light, windshield-wiper motion, bring the shadow about half way in, then connect it with the shadow in the outer V. The darker shadow will help to recede the skin of the hood. Always remember, if you’ve got hooded eyes, always have a matte shadow pallet handy!
You’ve got some great pieces in your wardrobe. You know you do. So then why is it that every time you open your closet, you either A) find you have absolutely nothing to wear, or B) stick to your same ol’ “safe” outfits. It might all come down to a very simple reason: you are not taking full advantage of color matching. Once you start looking at colors, and new ways to combine them, a world of possibilities with your existing wardrobe will open up before your eyes!
- Complimentary Colors – Unless you remember high school art class, you might need to get on Google for this. On the color wheel, a complimentary color is one that can be found directly across from your current color, and it is combo guaranteed to look fab. See? It’s science!
- Think Ombre — Admittedly, this is the easy way out, but it will work in a pinch. It might even get your color matching juices flowing! Just as ombre uses varying shades of the same color, try pairing differing hues of the same color in pastels, jewel tones, earth tones, etc.
- J. Crew Cheat Sheet – When in doubt, hit the catalogues! It works to find inspiration in almost anything… decorating, interior design, gardening…so why not fashion? J. Crew in particular is fantastic at coordinating items resulting in the most beautiful array of colors and patterns you’ve ever seen! It’s almost guaranteed that even if you don’t have the exact pieces J. Crew is using, you most likely have the colors. So look at how their experts are pairing the colors, and follow their lead.
- Look to Your Prints – Some of your favorite, most unlikely, most delightful color combinations might be hiding right in front of your eyes! Maybe it’s in your closet, or your accessory drawer, or maybe it’s something straight from a fashion mag or your favorite designer’s runway show. Prints! You know ‘em, you love ‘em…and they can unlock all kinds of winning color combinations for you. Also pay attention to the proportion in which each color is used. Make the most-used colors the inspiration for your big pieces, and let the lesser-used colors inspire you for small pieces and accessories.
- Black and White – It’s classic for a good reason: it works! Pairing black and white is not only striking, but it works on a scientific level, since these two colors are opposites on the color wheel. And they also combine to provide an epic base for adding a pop of color in shoes, belts, jewelry, bags, and other accessories (just do us a favor…don’t take it too far and go all Cruella Deville on us).
Not even the most die-hard makeup artist is completely perfect when it comes to their own makeup habits. We all get busy, forgetful, lazy. But there are some makeup missteps that could end up being detrimental to not only your makeup, but your skin. Thankfully, though, these are all easy fixes, and once you incorporate them into your routine, you’ll be back on track in no time!
- Not cleaning your brushes – Not only can this lead to bacteria growth in the brushes, but it can also end up costing a fortune! As dirt, dust, and makeup accumulate on the bristles, bacteria can thrive there too. And that same accumulation of gunk can cause the bristles of your most loved (and most expensive) brushes to break and fall out (sometimes sticking to your face during application). Yuk! Be sure to give your brushes a good cleaning with a mild cleanser every month or two.
- Blowing on your brushes – You’ve picked up a little too much product? Might as well give the brush a little blow to remove some of it, right? Wrong. Blowing on the brushes can transfer bacteria from your mouth and the air onto the bristles, which grows with each subsequent blow. Try tapping the brush on the side of the product or the edge of some other hard surface instead.
- Not washing your makeup off before bed – You’ve heard this a million times, we know. The reason you’ve heard it so much is because it’s true. Not only do your pores need to breathe, but your skin will have a harder time making room on the surface for new, pretty skin cells while the old, gunky cells are caked there. If you are really, really exhausted, using makeup wipes will do in a pinch, but you’re better off making it a practice to wash your face properly each night before bed.
- Not moisturizing before applying makeup – You might not think you need to follow this little practice, especially if your skin tends to be oily. But moisturizer has nothing to do with adding oil, and everything to do with keeping your skin hydrated. Also, skin that is not moisturized can often effect makeup application, making it look uneven and blotchy. Try adding a light daytime moisturizer with SPF to your routine before applying foundation. That way your skin stays hydrated, receives foundation more smoothly, and is protected from those harmful UVA and UVB rays.
- Using your hand to match your foundation color – Newsflash: your hand is not your face. It’s not even near your face. So why would the skin there be a good indicator of the skin on your face? The skin on our hands is exposed to sun and the elements a lot more often than that of the skin on your face, so it will almost definitely be a different color. If you’re out shopping and don’t want to mess up your makeup by swatching a new foundation across your cheek, try turning your head and applying a vertical line of foundation that is closer to your ear and one along your jawbone area. Those will give a better indication of a true match.
- Pumping your mascara – We admire your thriftiness. You want to get every last drop of that mascara out of the bottle. Or maybe you just want a little extra product on the wand. Either way, the only thing that pumping the mascara wand is doing is pushing air into the bottle…which is making the product dry up quicker. Opt for swishing the wand around the sides of the bottle instead.
- Matching your eye shadow to your outfit – Ok, so we all did this as kids. As far as we were concerned, it was a major cool thing to do. Then. But now, we know better…or, at least we should. Eye makeup, particularly shadow, is designed to make the most of your eye color. And its application is meant to make the most of your eye’s shape. So don’t cut your potential beauty short. You can Google the best eye colors/eye shadow combos, or just check out a color wheel to see what colors opposite your eye color will best make your peepers pop!