Wes Gordon is, quite literally, taking his show on the road. The Carolina Herrera creative director marked resort 2024 with a show in Rio de Janeiro last year; today, for resort 2025, he and plenty of Herrera’s favorite celebrities and fans decamped to Mexico City for an extravaganza at Museo Anahuacalli, the Diego Rivera-designed landmark. The brand, and its founder, have had a longstanding relationship with the city, and Gordon enthuses, “It’s the epicenter right now, of all things cool: architecture, film, cuisine, fashion photography. Everything’s happening in Mexico City.”
A few days before the show, Gordon explained that once he knew that the event would be held in the museum’s courtyard, his inspiration fell into place. “The color palette of sunset as it’s hitting those volcanic rocks was really my starting point,” he says. “We built a palette that feels like the sky over Mexico City as the sun is setting.”
With Meghann Fahy, Karlie Kloss, and Yalitza Aparicio seated front row, Issa Lish opened the show in a pink and orange gown that nearly matched the celestial backdrop. Gordon showed off his ease with eveningwear, adding bold touches like oversized bows, colorful paillettes. statement sleeves, and exaggerated ruffles. The designer was careful to maintain the Herrera codes: “We have the color, we have the drama, the ruffles, the trains, the exuberance and flowers. But there’s definitely a strong spirit of Mexico City that’s unique to this collection.”
The ’50s and ’60s-influenced silhouettes on display included cigarette pants and strapless sweetheart gowns. And the accessories, which included mini clutches and heels in lime green, drop earrings, and statement necklaces, matched the slightly retro, ladylike tone perfectly.
Four female artisans from different regions of Mexico worked with Gordon on select pieces. Virginia Verónica Arce and María de los Ángeles Licona San Juan contributed embroidery. Jacqueline España, who practices the regional craft of talavera, a glazed ceramic technique, embellished clothing and jewelry with the traditional blue-and-white tiles. And Araceli Nibra Matadamas hand-painted jicara jewelry. “It was very much a collaboration,” Gordon says. “I gave them some loose instructions and ideas, and then I really let them take it from there and interpret it in their own way…I think when one does a destination show, to really partner with your hosts is what makes it interesting. That’s what brings something new to the story.”
Speaking of partnerships, the runway show also saw the debut of Herrera’s new denim collaboration with Frame on five elevated silhouettes in bold hues of marigold, periwinkle, and the signature Herrera red, inspired by the colors of Mexico City. The two have neighboring stores on Madison Avenue, and Gordon says that the label makes his favorite jeans. The capsule was his and Frame co-founder and creative director Erik Torstensson’s attempt to answer the question, What does the Herrera client wear when she’s not wearing a gown?
The resort collection marks the house’s first foray into the see-now, buy-now format, with everything available for purchase immediately afterwards. “With the excitement and energy we’re generating around the show,” Gordon explains, “we wanted to give our clients the opportunity for more instant, immediate gratification, rather than having to wait three or four months.” Based on the audience’s rapturous reaction, the pieces will be snapped up before you know it.
Véronique Hyland is ELLE’s Fashion Features Director and the author of the book Dress Code, which was selected as one of The New Yorker’s Best Books of the Year. Her writing has previously appeared in The New York Times Magazine, The New Yorker, W, New York magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, and Condé Nast Traveler.