London’s National Theatre was transformed today with a set created by artist Gary Hume, a star of the ’90s YBA (Young British Artists) movement. His installation, made from cutout pieces of teal cloth, softened the Brutalist background as Burberry show attendees Barry Keoghan, Amelia Dimoldenberg, Jodie Turner-Smith, Gabrielle Union and Jerry Hall chatted amongst themselves. (Keoghan and Dimoldenberg appeared deep in conversation; could a Chicken Shop Date be brewing?)
Daniel Lee, who has been at the house as creative director since 2022, opted to focus on heritage for summer 2025—an understandable move amid our collective obsession with nostalgia and quiet luxury. But Lee didn’t approach history in a stuffy manner. In his hands, the brand’s signature trench was cropped into a swingy cape or transformed into smart jackets and tie-neck blouses.
Ethereal touches—feather trim, flapper sequins, and ruffles—were mixed with sturdier staples, like cargo pants, evoking the city’s noted high-low style. (The casting included beloved Brit models Edie Campbell and Lily Donaldson, who have been known to dress like this off duty.) And pops of sporty orange and bright lavender enlivened the mostly neutral palette.
Burberry’s signature check was also in evidence. The designer presented it in subdued shades or in its original iteration, peeking through the looks subtly in the form of skinny scarves, belts, and bags. Call it Daniel Lee’s answer to quiet luxury.
Burberry Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear
Véronique Hyland is ELLE’s Fashion Features Director and the author of the book Dress Code, which was selected as one of The New Yorker’s Best Books of the Year. Her writing has previously appeared in The New York Times Magazine, The New Yorker, W, New York magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, and Condé Nast Traveler.