Since September 2024, ELLE has partnered with Substack, enlisting some of the platform’s most-followed fashion writers to pen essays accompanying our fashion shoots. Today’s edition features Jalil Johnson, author of the Consider Yourself Cultured newsletter.
I grew up in the South, where Western style—cowboy boots, fringe, anything suede—was practically a rite of passage. But ever the natural contrarian, I resisted, waiting until college to fully explore the trappings of the trend. I bought my first pair of cowboy boots during my sophomore year, but I wasn’t wearing them as a nostalgic nod to the hometown kids, nor was I channeling the boho-romantic, Coachella-going, avocado toast-eating girls who seemed to live in cowboy boots. No—I wanted to wear them in a Princess Diana-being-snapped-by-the-paparazzi way.
I doubt I ever achieved the same savoir-faire as the late princess, but those boots stayed in my rotation—until I had to part with them for the sake of a lighter move. A decision I’ve regretted ever since, as there have been countless moments when cowboy boots would have been the perfect finishing touch.
Handbag, Gabriela Hearst.
When I was assisting on a Western-themed shoot, I had to go vintage sourcing at Stella Dallas in Brooklyn, where I uncovered beautifully weathered Levi’s, patchwork quilts, and a leather vest with fringe, studs, and a cowhide yoke—a truly delicious find that I selfishly bought with the full intention of taking home (I still have that vest to this day). And while I bought my first cowboy hat long before Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter era, now that we’re on the cusp of another tour, I’ve dusted off that old hat—along with a new one—in preparation.
Perhaps the influx of Western-inspired pieces—cowboy boots and hats, fringe, suede, and denim galore—flooding the spring 2025 runways and retail floors can be traced back to Beyoncé’s Grammy-winning album. Or maybe it stems from the ongoing fascination with the American West, fueled by shows like Yellowstone. But does the Western trend ever truly go away? It’s one of those perennial styles, as ever-present as leopard print.
That said, this iteration of the motif felt distinct—more refined, even elevated—compared to its previous cycles. Prada, arguably the brand shaping trends in tandem with its sister label Miu Miu, sent out a collection brimming with personality. Among its 49 distinct looks, some featured unmistakable Western hallmarks: pre-distressed cowboy boots, heels detailed with Western yokes, and rodeo-ready fringe skirts. Miu Miu, while not overtly Western, still nodded to the aesthetic, accessorizing many looks with rhinestone-studded cowboy-style belts.
Shoes, Prada.
Hermès reimagined its classic Kelly bag with cascading fringe, while Isabel Marant—no stranger to the West—fully embraced the codes, upping the ante with body-hugging suede mini dresses, shorts, and, of course, fringe abound. Fringe-adorned bags and jackets, and moccasins accented with tassels reinforced the theme, making it clear that this season’s take on Western isn’t meant for the dusty trails but for the city streets. The look has gone cosmopolitan.
Princess Diana wearing cowboy boots in 1988.
And while Western style never truly disappears, its resurgence at any given moment is never arbitrary. Trends reflect the cultural psyche, mirroring the collective mood of the time. So, what does it say that Western is trending now? Perhaps it’s a reflection of our current reality—one where uncertainty looms and the landscape of industry, technology, and daily life shifts at a relentless pace. In many ways, it does feel like we’re living in the Wild West. And if that’s the case, why not dress the part?
This shoot appears in the February 2025 issue of ELLE.